After Zanzibar we planned to go south on the coast road. However met a Danish doctor who had just come up and he told us of a 2 km stetch where there is standing water and you don't know how deep it is till your car stops! Also it is not known if the people coming out of the bushes push/pull you out for 10,000TSh (5 pounds) or take your wallet, mobile and watch.
So we went off to Iringa on the Tanzam Highway, a lovely road sweeping from Dar To Zambia.
First a day in Mkumi game reserve wihich is a lovely neat reserve with all you want to see. Lots of elephant, giraffe, impala, buffalo, jackal etc. We were treated to two baby elephants playing in a puddle of water about 10 meteres in front of us. swinging their trunks, splashing, jostling just like 3 year old children. The mothers looked on unconcerned and then came up to squirt water into their mouths as the baby cannot squirt adequately till something like 7 years old.
Then through a magnificent baobab valley to Iringa in the Highlands. It is cool and temperate. stayed with couple of VSOs (Emma and Roland) doing great work introducing Moodle (Computer based learning/teaching ) to teacher training colleges.
Then another day down to Mbeya down in deep south. The world has passed it by a bit. Sleepy and laid back.
We stayed in a hotel which was once very nice, well constructed, a 3 storey building one might find in a low key Greek resort or eastern Europe The first room had an unmade bed (it was 4pm and they only had one guest staying the night before), the next the loo didnt work, 'OK so we make the bed in the first room', fine but the shower doesnt work, Ok another room for extra 5 pounds. oops no bulb in the light socket, next room loo was leaking and smelling, next room seemed acceptable though no mosquito net. So we took it and I nipped next door and unhitched the net from the ceiling and attached it in our room. seemed easier than asking the staff to do it. It was cheap and we felt virtuous volunteers. We were glad next morning to find our car had not been nicked but the nonchalence service at breakfast (we the only guests) reminded us of old communist Eastern Europe.
So a spectular new road down 1000 metres to Lake Nyasa/Malawi and we spent 3nights in a little wooden octagonal hut with 'windows' on 6 sides, actually gaps with mosquito netting, sitting on the sand by the shore. A gentle breeze coming through the hut kept us cool though no doubt everything we did was observed by those who wished to see. We were the only guests. Each morning a 20 metre walk to the beautiful clear Lake Malawi ( reputedly bilharzia free on this 3 km long beach with no reeds hence snails.) We were tempted to stay on and on and on. We even popped into the Lutheran Hospital set right on beach and did a ward round with a charismatic german woman doctor who had worked there for 10 years.
Back to the Highlands to stay with Geoff and Vicky Fox at Mufindi Highland lodge (who come from Tavistock, having a house across the field from us). They treated us magnificently and we had delicious food and met up with their sons Chris and Alex who happened to be there. We visited the splendid orphans homes they have set up and spent a while advising about a new hospital their NGO is building,
Then on to Ruaha NationalPark to stay in Chris Foxs very luxury lodge, Mwaguzi. A spectacular tent on the curve of the river and and beautiful design and artistic touches. The food was never ending and true first class. We were not used to the rich food!!
Had another day of seeing animals in the own environment and it was a fitting last safari. it rained the night before we left and we had some hairy driving to get out but we did!
So back to Morogoro to visit Sandra (VSO) and see her school and what she was doing. Lovely to see her in her placement.
Then three 8 hour drives to Singida then Mwanza and then back to Bukoba. However it is paved almost all the way apart from about from 30km stetch north of Dodoma and another in Kagera.
(to see a detailed log of the road Mwanza to Bukoba go to http://bradttanzania.wordpress.com/2010/04/02/mwanza-to-bukoba-by-road-in-early-2010/)
Coming back up the west side of Lake Victoria was spectacular, a beautiful new wnding road. Looking down at the blue blue lake and the islands doted off reminded me of the Adriatic drive down the coast of Yugoslavia or by some Italian lake. But there was almost no other cars or trucks, only people and cows and goats. Then coming back close to Kagondo where to the west the Rubya/Ndolade Escarpment above the Ngoni River was catching the evening sun and the to the east the Lake was still shimmering blue, we kind of felt we were coming home.
However true to form first we picked up a nun at Kagondo then a badly bruised 'body' lying in a ditch ( he had stolen some bananas and was severely beaten). We took him to outpatients at Bukoba hospital , left the sister at the cathedral and arrived back at Yasila Hotel 10 weeks after we had left.
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Great journey, great experiences and so glad that we were back in one piece with no real mishaps.
Looking forwards to catching up with family and friends in UK and will try to send personal emails or speak on the the phone to those we do not see
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